



Upon arrival there were probably no more than eight other persons on the beach. As the day unfolded a few more beach lovers arrived but only a handful. The water was flat and clear. We were able to spot a ray, a sand shark and a turtle from the beach. Intermittent clouds and cooling rains passed overhead, which helped to cool things down, but still requiring us to apply and reapply 30+ sunscreen. Amazingly, even though at one point, due to liberal application of sunscreen and looking like a mime, my face still was red before we even left the beach. Fair skin is a challenge in the Caribbean.
Both beach bars were set up on the beach. After an hour, Gary went to place an order for two frozen drinks. The bar he went to (the one on the right) wasn't mixing frozen drinks due to forgetting the bottom half of the blender. Someone had been dispatched to pick the forgotten part up, so Gary promised to be back. We wondered back into the water to cool off and could hear the other bar's blender beckoning us, but Gary stayed true to his word and waited until the ladies at the right bar had their blender put together and working. Frozen rum punches for both of us. Very refreshing on a warm day.
When we arrived on the beach, a group of people in street attire could been seen on the rocks on the east end of the beach. We later learned some in the group were beach wardens. The beach wardens and their associates headed back towards the car park and a local by the name of Sean approached them. Sean, apparently, had spent many years out of the BVI with his family in Canada, where he was schooled, and returned a few years back opening a landscaping business. Sean told the wardens he wanted 100 acres in the area for a nursery and to put in nature trails that the cruise passengers could be brought to explore. Those of us on the beach who loved the quiet and no cruise ships in port for the day, widened our eyes in horror. Of course the BVI is Sean's country, not ours, but even so, those of us hearing the conversation were concerned a beautiful, tranquil spot is still being looked at as a fund generator and attraction for cruise ship passengers.
In the 20 years we have been visiting the BVI, we've never saw anyone fishing at the beach. Today, two men were in the surf fishing. One, who's name was Heinz, was the first we spotted in the sea. Sean, the belonger who was asking for 100-acres, spotted Heinz, and from that point, the tranquil spirit of Smuggler's was broken. Sean called Heinz out of the water telling him he needed a license to fish in the BVI and told him the wardens were watching him. Interestingly, none of the wardens had approached Heinz, who we learned was vacationing from Pennsylvania. Being respectful, Heinz came out of the water, put his fishing rod away, and asked where he could pick up a license as he wanted to adhere to BVI laws. Sean made a point of telling Heinz if "I fish in North America's waters, I must buy a license to fish, and here you must do the same." Heinz acknowledged the statement, emptied his bait bucket and sat down with no complaints.
A bit later, another tourist, this one from Massachusetts, was in the surf fishing. Sean was under the trees having lunch and talking to a group, but let the Salem-man fish without saying a word. A bit later, while we were cooling off in the water, waiting for the blender parts to arrive, the Salem man was in the water and hooked up a barracuda. Gary and I left the water not wanted the barracuda to come towards us while being hauled in. Those on the beach seeing the action, jumped to their feet to watch the action. Fortunately for the 'cuda, he jumped the hook and set himself free. Heinz, seeing the action, and seeing another tourist in the water fishing, grabbed his pole, headed back into the water and began casting with an artificial lure, then mayhem broke!
Sean came charging from under the sea grape trees yelling at both men stating they were breaking the law. The Salem man told Sean he had e-mailed the ministry before traveling, to obtain a fishing license and was told he did not need one since he'd be fishing from the beach, not a boat. Sean asked him who signed the e-mail, but obviously the Salem man didn't have the e-mail in his pocket and Sean would not back down. The "conversation" went downhill from there. Sean remarked all Americans felt that buying a plane ticket to the BVI entitled them to do whatever they pleased. Heinz left the water quietly and he and his group packed up their things and left. The Salem man's girlfriend, Robin, attempted short-term to address Sean's concerns, but then respect, dignity and manners were tossed aside. I won't go into the details, but it was disturbing and something we've never witnessed before in the BVI. Some may ask why I included this in the blog. Simply, because travelers to the BVI (or to other countries) need to remember a few things:
(1) Sometimes rules are not clear or are even confusing to residents. After we asked several people, belongers and non-belongers, whether a license is needed when fishing from the beach, we received conflicting responses. One person told us if you were fishing from a marina or resort, no license is needed, but if fishing from a non-private beach, one is needed. TheWelcome BVI magazine just states non-belongers cannot remove sea life from the sea. One person, who rents fishing rods, said no permit is needed when fishing from the beach, and that you are allowed to keep the fish you catch. Gary plans to make a call to the Ministry to ask for clarification. I'm hoping this will enlighten us all.
(2) All visitors to the BVI need to remember they are a guest in the BVI. Being loud, disrespectful, or belligerent will only make things worse.
(3) Being able to fish or not on the beach is not a life-death situation. If a belonger is telling you what is allowed and what is not, thank them, back down, stop fishing or go to another beach to fish.
(4) Customs and cultural differences need to be respected. Understand "sticking up for your rights" may be interpreted as being disrespectful.
(5) The "ugly American" stereotype is alive and well, and in some cases, rightly so.
The situation did destroy several first-timer's beliefs that the BVI was a calm and beautiful paradise. Hopefully they will change their opinions after a few more days.
Time to get off my soap box....
After leaving Smuggler's Cove, we headed for Stanley's at Cane Garden Bay for a late lunch. The warm welcome back and cheeseburgers were worth returning for. A few more sailboats and onesportfish were anchored in the bay, and folks were enjoying the water and the beach.
Before heading back to Brewer's Bay, we stopped at Quito's Gazebo to confirm whether Quito would be performing tonight and learned he would, beginning a 8:30 p.m. We headed back toCasa Allamanda for a dip in the pool, cocktails, and to freshen up for our return to hear Quito.
We headed back to Cane Garden Bay around 8 p.m. and headed into Quito's ordering drinks and appetizers. Once Quito began playing, the bar quickly filled up. Not sure what everyone was drinking, but only a couple of couples actually swayed to the beat of the music. The others were simply moving and jumping up and down. For those of you who watched Seinfield, there were a lot of Elaine's on the dance floor. Way too funny. :) (Sorry if any of them were you.)
We returned to the villa sleepy, but also looking forward to tomorrow's adventures and more life lessons.
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