Emilie, Jost Van Dyke, Painkillers, and Jumping Off Docks

We're up and out the door early today to pick up Emilie at Nanny Cay. Emilie is a 24' Contender, which will be our transportation to Jost Van Dyke and points in-between.

Priscilla is at Island Time awaiting our 7:30 a.m. arrival. A quick check of the boat and final briefing, then we're on our way to Soper's Hole to pick up ice since the marina at Nanny Cay doesn't open until 8:30. On top of that, today is a national holiday--The Queen's Birthday--so not sure if the 8:30 a.m. time will be a later opening time.

We pull into Soper's Hole. Gary jumps off and goes into the store for ice. Two bags later, we're headed for a day adventure. The initial plan was to go to Monkey Point for some early morning snorkeling, but the prevailing winds make it a bit snotty, so we opt to head for Jost Van Dyke first, then possible Sandy Cay for late afternoon snorkeling.

We pull in to White Bay and only three or four boats there. We set our anchor, stow all our needed things in a dry bag, jump overboard and swim for shore. Gary stays with Emilie a while longer to ensure the anchor is indeed set.

Because there is no depth finder on the boat and we are required to keep the boat in at least 10-feet of water, Gary anchored out further than the catamarans. Fortunately he did this because as the day grows older, more boats head in and they try to get as near shore as possible. The vessels that were there when we arrived, were a bit nervous as the day trippers and other boats arrived. Fortunately, we didn't have as much worrying to do.

After taking in the beautiful sights of White Bay, we head into the Soggy Dollar for a painkiller for me and a Heineken for Gary. Bartender Nick was a gracious host and had everyone laughing. A few photos, especially of the soggy dollars hanging behind the bard, then a few drinks later (for me), Gary heads back to Emilie to bring her closer to the shore so the swim isn't as far. We load up the boat and head for Great Harbour to hit Foxy's.

As we're arriving at the government dock, a spot opens up on the end and we gracefully motor in and tie up. No swimming in required for this spot. We walk over to Foxy's and order a Foxy's Punch (followed by a Friggin' in da Riggin') for me and a Bushwacker for Gary. Within a short period of time, the place fills up and Foxy makes an appearance! He cracks a few jokes, poses for photos, and has the crowd laughing. After enjoying a second drink and conch fritters, we decide to head over to Diamond Cay to Foxy's Taboo for lunch.

The dock at Foxy's Taboo is easy to tie up to and even more fun to jump off, as Gary would witness when we were ready to leave. Darren greets us in the restaurant and promptly takes our drink order. Another Friggin' in da Riggin for me and other greenie for Gary. Darren is intrigued by the Coastal Angler Magazine he spots on the table and Gary gives him a copy and tells him more about it. Before long, Darren is wearing Gary's Coastal Angler hat and is sitting at the bar reading the magazine. I think Darren will be our first CAM BVI representative. :)

After a lunch of pizza and a Foxy's Taboo Salad, we head for the dock. Influence by two young mermaids, I join them in jumping off the dock, while we make Gary take photos. Too much fun. Gary was a little concerned about safety but realized we were all safe and the water very deep.

Once I boarded the boat, we were off to Sandy Cay for a quick swim and snorkel. Four o'clock snuck up very fast. Our run to Nanny Cay with current wind and sea conditions would be at least 30-45 minutes, so we loaded up, secure all items aboard and off we went.

We arrived back at Nanny Cay with 15 minutes to spare. Priscilla was on the dock and helped us refuel. We only used 16 gallons of fuel. WOW! Guess we did more limin' than cruisin'.

She inspected the boat, found it in the same condition in which it left and wished us a wonderful vacation. Gary and I were proud to not have joined the Tree of Shame, which is a tree that holds all the props dinged or damaged by past renters.

We headed back to Casa Allamanda. After showers, we warmed up the last of the past sauce, ate, did some reading, then it was early to bed. A day on the water, in the sun, and enjoying rum concoctions is hard work.

Pirate Radio, Rueben, and Bananakeet Sunsets

Pirate Radio is alive and well, this time broadcasting live from the British Virgin Islands!

Today Talkin' Tourism's second live remote from Tortola was heard. A couple of glitches, like the phone connection going out for 2-to-3 minutes, and a loud jet flying into Beef Island making it hard to hear the radio station and guests, but all and all a successful show from Brandywine Bay Restaurant!

Both Malcolm "Manpot" Boyes and Chef Davide Pugliese were great. Cele surprised Malcolm during the second half of the show with a plate of pork bellies. The sauces accompanying the fried delicacy were delicious! Malcolm and Davide also shared their concept for a chef's show done on a deserted island. To hear the hour show, check out the Talkin' Tourism blog.

Davide told us that he ended up living in Tortola after a pilot strike kept him in the BVI on his first trip. With the Spirit strike pending, I wonder if the same might happen to us. One can only hope! :)

After the show, we headed back to Casa Allamanda for some limin' around the pool and to make dinner reservations for the Banakeet Cafe to enjoy a sunset dinner and music by Rueben.

The Banakeet was not busy when we arrived, but the place filled up shortly afterward. We ran into Malcolm and Candace one more time. The sunset was nice and Rueben's music even better. The Banakeet Sundowners were enjoyed by everyone in the restaurant.

For starters, Gary and I both enjoyed the chef's soup for dinner, which was a creamy, spicy crab and conch chowder. All I can say is YUM and DOUBLE YUM! The soup was rich and filling and I had an Ahi tuna entree on the way. Had I known how filling the soup would be, I would have simply ordered a small salad and called it a meal. The ahi was nice, but not as good as in year's past. A wasabi sauce decorated the top, but there was no ginger to accompany it. I love the zing of ginger so was a tad disappointed, but not too disappointed.

After dinner, we headed 'home' to Casa Allamanda for more star watching and sleep. Tomorrow's plans include a day on the water on our center-console, Emilie.

Day Five - Just Limin' and Sound Checks

Today was a combination of limin' and 'work.' A little radio pre-show publicity combined with a Coastal Angler conference call via Skype, and a radio check atBrandywine Bay with Davide about sums the day up.

Before the sound check and after the Coastal Angler conference call, spent time by the Casa Allamanda pool, read, watched several boats come into to Brewer's Bay, checked my eye lids for holes, and that's about it.

Sound check challenges were easily overcome with a DSL filter. The radio signal to/from the radio station was stronger here in the BVI than some locations in the United States. All we must pray for tomorrow is current and that Cable & Wireless keeps the phone lines humming.

On our way back to Brewer's Bay we diverted for a stop in Road Town to enjoy a cold Carib while waiting for the afternoon traffic to thin out. Thank goodness the traffic signal at the roundabout was deactivated. I'm sure the locals are too!

More limin' around the pool and waiting for our resident bat, Gomez, to buzz the pool. A quiet, but relaxing day.

Here are some radio pre-show photographs taken at Brandywine Bay Restaurant:

Day Four - Soper's Hole, Wali Nikiti, and Scrub Island

Today we headed to Soper's Hole to say hi to Debs and Scott at their new Island Surf and Saillocation. Their new 'office' is air-conditioned and very comfortable. Gary had fun checking out some of their new long boards. They were off on a morning delivery so we said a quick good-bye and promised to stop back another afternoon for happy hour.

It was then off to Island Time at Nanny Cay to arrange for a boat rental. We completed our paper work, did our pre-trip briefing and checked out Emily, the 22-foot Contender the boat we've been assigned. We rented Emilie last year and she's a fine vessel. We'll be able to pick her up early due to a boat delivery, so this year I'm lobbying for us to sneak in a trip to Monkey Point for early morning snorkeling, then over to Jost Van Dyke.

Afterwards, we headed back to Casa Allamanda for some limin' before heading over to Trellis Bay in the mid-afternoon to hook up with Chef Davide for a trip to Wali Nikiti on Scrub Island.

Everything in the Caribbean, as Gary and I learned from a year of managing a resort in the southern Caribbean, is about the boat. Observing the supplies on the dock being loaded aboard the Scrub Island Resort boat, and others headed for Virgin Gorda, really brought back some memories. We later shared with Chef Davide that the frozen food order for our resort only came once a year. He was amazed!

Chef Davide finally appeared on the dock and we took the next boat over to Scrub Island. Scrub Island Resort is very beautiful and it's hard to describe the architecture--it's definitely not classic Caribbean. Lots of natural materials have been used and it appears as they've spared no expense. Available slips were plentiful, but I expect over time that will change. While almost complete, they are still running Cat-6 on the docks and doing some concrete-tile work here and there. The bi-level pool area is certain to be a favorite, and the interior bar is very beautiful. The bar's top in this room is made from beautifully polished petrified wood. Very elegant and classy. A private dining room sits off the main dining room and a conference/ball room area will be a great attraction for corporate events and I'm sure weddings.

Ceasar, who helps Davide at Wali Nikiti, picked us up at the resort. Davide drove to Wali Nikit, pointing out Scrub Island Resort villas under construction, as well as the resort's desalinization plant and back up generators. Running a resort on a private island takes a lot of planning and resources.

Davide and Cele's home-Wali Nikiti is magnificent! Pictures don't do it justice, but here's a link to the one's we captured.

Davide and Cele had elements of the house created before it was even built. The imported wood, art, architecture, open-air living, color scheme and hundreds of other special touches make the home a work of art itself. Definitely a one-of-a-kind-home. Thank you for the tour Davide and may you and Cele enjoy many wonderful love filled years in Wali-Nikiti.

After departing Wali-Nikiti and Scrub Island, we headed towards the opposite end of Tortola--West End for cocktails and appetizers. Why? We love watching the bare boaters who come in after a day of sailing. Some are all smiles, others are grateful to be back on land, and then there are those who continue the drinking olympics. Pussers West End is great for people watching.

Afterwards, we travel back to Casa Allamanda for a light dinner, some reading, and then off to sleep. All the fresh air, sunshine and 'traveling the island' sure does tire us out!

Here's a link to photos of Scrub Island Resort: 

Day Three - Smuggler's, Stanley's, and Quito

Another picture-perfect beginning to the day with Gary cooking breakfast (a Guertin BVI tradition), followed by a day at one of our favorite beaches--Smuggler's Cove.

Upon arrival there were probably no more than eight other persons on the beach. As the day unfolded a few more beach lovers arrived but only a handful. The water was flat and clear. We were able to spot a ray, a sand shark and a turtle from the beach. Intermittent clouds and cooling rains passed overhead, which helped to cool things down, but still requiring us to apply and reapply 30+ sunscreen. Amazingly, even though at one point, due to liberal application of sunscreen and looking like a mime, my face still was red before we even left the beach. Fair skin is a challenge in the Caribbean.

Both beach bars were set up on the beach. After an hour, Gary went to place an order for two frozen drinks. The bar he went to (the one on the right) wasn't mixing frozen drinks due to forgetting the bottom half of the blender. Someone had been dispatched to pick the forgotten part up, so Gary promised to be back. We wondered back into the water to cool off and could hear the other bar's blender beckoning us, but Gary stayed true to his word and waited until the ladies at the right bar had their blender put together and working. Frozen rum punches for both of us. Very refreshing on a warm day.

When we arrived on the beach, a group of people in street attire could been seen on the rocks on the east end of the beach. We later learned some in the group were beach wardens. The beach wardens and their associates headed back towards the car park and a local by the name of Sean approached them. Sean, apparently, had spent many years out of the BVI with his family in Canada, where he was schooled, and returned a few years back opening a landscaping business. Sean told the wardens he wanted 100 acres in the area for a nursery and to put in nature trails that the cruise passengers could be brought to explore. Those of us on the beach who loved the quiet and no cruise ships in port for the day, widened our eyes in horror. Of course the BVI is Sean's country, not ours, but even so, those of us hearing the conversation were concerned a beautiful, tranquil spot is still being looked at as a fund generator and attraction for cruise ship passengers.

In the 20 years we have been visiting the BVI, we've never saw anyone fishing at the beach. Today, two men were in the surf fishing. One, who's name was Heinz, was the first we spotted in the sea. Sean, the belonger who was asking for 100-acres, spotted Heinz, and from that point, the tranquil spirit of Smuggler's was broken. Sean called Heinz out of the water telling him he needed a license to fish in the BVI and told him the wardens were watching him. Interestingly, none of the wardens had approached Heinz, who we learned was vacationing from Pennsylvania. Being respectful, Heinz came out of the water, put his fishing rod away, and asked where he could pick up a license as he wanted to adhere to BVI laws. Sean made a point of telling Heinz if "I fish in North America's waters, I must buy a license to fish, and here you must do the same." Heinz acknowledged the statement, emptied his bait bucket and sat down with no complaints.

A bit later, another tourist, this one from Massachusetts, was in the surf fishing. Sean was under the trees having lunch and talking to a group, but let the Salem-man fish without saying a word. A bit later, while we were cooling off in the water, waiting for the blender parts to arrive, the Salem man was in the water and hooked up a barracuda. Gary and I left the water not wanted the barracuda to come towards us while being hauled in. Those on the beach seeing the action, jumped to their feet to watch the action. Fortunately for the 'cuda, he jumped the hook and set himself free. Heinz, seeing the action, and seeing another tourist in the water fishing, grabbed his pole, headed back into the water and began casting with an artificial lure, then mayhem broke!

Sean came charging from under the sea grape trees yelling at both men stating they were breaking the law. The Salem man told Sean he had e-mailed the ministry before traveling, to obtain a fishing license and was told he did not need one since he'd be fishing from the beach, not a boat. Sean asked him who signed the e-mail, but obviously the Salem man didn't have the e-mail in his pocket and Sean would not back down. The "conversation" went downhill from there. Sean remarked all Americans felt that buying a plane ticket to the BVI entitled them to do whatever they pleased. Heinz left the water quietly and he and his group packed up their things and left. The Salem man's girlfriend, Robin, attempted short-term to address Sean's concerns, but then respect, dignity and manners were tossed aside. I won't go into the details, but it was disturbing and something we've never witnessed before in the BVI. Some may ask why I included this in the blog. Simply, because travelers to the BVI (or to other countries) need to remember a few things:

(1) Sometimes rules are not clear or are even confusing to residents. After we asked several people, belongers and non-belongers, whether a license is needed when fishing from the beach, we received conflicting responses. One person told us if you were fishing from a marina or resort, no license is needed, but if fishing from a non-private beach, one is needed. TheWelcome BVI magazine just states non-belongers cannot remove sea life from the sea. One person, who rents fishing rods, said no permit is needed when fishing from the beach, and that you are allowed to keep the fish you catch. Gary plans to make a call to the Ministry to ask for clarification. I'm hoping this will enlighten us all.

(2) All visitors to the BVI need to remember they are a guest in the BVI. Being loud, disrespectful, or belligerent will only make things worse.

(3) Being able to fish or not on the beach is not a life-death situation. If a belonger is telling you what is allowed and what is not, thank them, back down, stop fishing or go to another beach to fish.

(4) Customs and cultural differences need to be respected. Understand "sticking up for your rights" may be interpreted as being disrespectful.

(5) The "ugly American" stereotype is alive and well, and in some cases, rightly so.

The situation did destroy several first-timer's beliefs that the BVI was a calm and beautiful paradise. Hopefully they will change their opinions after a few more days.

Time to get off my soap box....

After leaving Smuggler's Cove, we headed for Stanley's at Cane Garden Bay for a late lunch. The warm welcome back and cheeseburgers were worth returning for. A few more sailboats and onesportfish were anchored in the bay, and folks were enjoying the water and the beach.

Before heading back to Brewer's Bay, we stopped at Quito's Gazebo to confirm whether Quito would be performing tonight and learned he would, beginning a 8:30 p.m. We headed back toCasa Allamanda for a dip in the pool, cocktails, and to freshen up for our return to hear Quito.

We headed back to Cane Garden Bay around 8 p.m. and headed into Quito's ordering drinks and appetizers. Once Quito began playing, the bar quickly filled up. Not sure what everyone was drinking, but only a couple of couples actually swayed to the beat of the music. The others were simply moving and jumping up and down. For those of you who watched Seinfield, there were a lot of Elaine's on the dance floor. Way too funny. :) (Sorry if any of them were you.)

We returned to the villa sleepy, but also looking forward to tomorrow's adventures and more life lessons.

Day Two - Provisioning and Afternoon Cocktails

Beautiful weather and a slow paced day sums up Day Two. We finally figured out the wireless at the villa. Via Facebook and Skype checked on Abaco, Bacardi, Lola Marie, Tobago, Carmen and Frick back at home. Michelle our parrot nanny reported everyone was behaving and happy.

Did heavier provisioning today. All I can say is, don't leave home without your American Express card! Our first stop was Bobby's and the wine aisle. Checked out the American wine selection and settled for Chilean wines....a couple of chardonnays, sauvignon blancs, and cabernets (needed totally for pasta sauce, of course). Ran into a group boat provisioning and they were impressed that we did the adult beverages first, then the food supplies. Suggested the Chilean wines to them. After they visited the wine aisle they thanked us for our suggestions. Afterwards, we hit RiteWay. Must say RiteWay's meat selection was looking pretty nice and we found the ingredients to a couple of recipes there that we didn't find at Bobby's.

Back at the villa, lounged in the pool and eventually headed down to Brewer's Bay to enjoy the afternoon sun. Had fun watching the cows on the beach and a Texas family having a blast in the water. Gary gave them a marina biology 101 on how a snail exists. They had collected one in a bucket and were looking for answers. Gary, a former biology major, gave them one.

Thunder threatened (again), something we've seldom experienced on Tortola, and we headed up the hill to Casa Allamanda before any heavy rainfall began. Once there, a dip in the pool, followed by some reading relax time, and dinner prep--a Bolognese sauce.

Night has fallen and Gomez, the resident Casa Allamanda bat, is now skimming the pool for drinks (and possibly bugs). It's nice to have some things remain the same!

Up this week? Visiting Jost van Dyke on our own via an Island Time center console, possibly an Anegada adventure, and a return to Virgin Gorda. And of course, a Talkin' Tourism live remote on Friday.

Having a blast!

June 2010 - Tortola - Day One

Departure day! Drive to Fort Lauderdale was smooth, check-in easy, blew through security, and a full plane departed on time! Our pilot worked magic and arrived in St. Thomas early. All our bags arrived with us (whew!), we grabbed a passion fruit dacquiri at the airport bar, then caught a ride on the infamous Love Cab (telephone 473-6344) -- "The Awesome Wheels of Love"-- to the ferry landing. On previous trips we arranged ground transport through Margie on Island Magic. This time we opted to be less structured, but our taxi driver was the same we've had for the past four trips. :) He recognized us and helped us load up our luggage quickly and efficiently. Surprisingly, we were on time for the 4:00 ferry to West End. On previous trips, we ran late and had to grab the 5:30 Sunday ferry. Lady Luck was with us.

Upon arrival at West End, we proceeded through customs and immigration quickly. They welcomed us back with smiles. We joked about the possibility of being in the BVI longer if Spirit Airlines strikes. Hopefully we'll be laughing on our scheduled return date.

Jerry was outside the terminal to take us to his office for our rental car. Paper work was quick and efficient, then we were off to Casa Allamanda to drop off our luggage. After unpacking and a quick refresh, we headed off to the Elm for the famous Sunday night barbecue. There we were welcomed back warmly by the restaurant staff, and we ran into Malcolm (Manpot) and Candace. The new band "Da Tree Men" were playing. They were great!

Malcolm will once again be Gary's co-host on Talkin' Tourism this Friday. He graciously co-hosted last year. This year's show will include Davide Pugliese and air live from Brandywine Bay Restaurant. Tune in on www.wpsl.com at 10 a.m. on Friday (6/11) to listen to the show LIVE from Tortola. Pre-show publicity will soon be posted on Facebook too.

After ribs and GOOD fish, we were off to Bobby's in Cane Garden Bay to pick up "light" provisions...eggs, bacon, bread, coffee, butter, RUM, limes, passion fruit juice, 6-pack of coke, water, cheese, crackers, peanut butter---$176. =\ Welcome to the islands! A "big" Bobby's run in Road Town to follow in the morning for heartier groceries. Thank goodness for American Express! Don't leave home without it!

After dinner and a mini Bobby's run, we returned to Casa Allamanda for rum night caps on the patio, followed by a movie, then sleep serenaded by the roosters, birds, and doggies.

More adventures to follow!

Attached are some iPhone photos and video. Better high-def and higher resolution photography to come!

Gary--"what are you doing?" after two DUTCH Heineken's--the real McCoy!